Eating coral trout within the vicinity of one of the world's most impressive reefs is a sensible choice, and it's made all the better by chef Benjamin Wallace who dresses it in heady lemongrass and makrut lime.

A taste of the tropics can also be found in the bold and balanced small dishes – betel leaves topped with pomelo, coconut and just-set prawns, say, or ma hor with watermelon underpinning a scoop of salty-sweet caramelised pork.

While mains stick more closely to the traditional Thai playbook, there are exceptions; mushroom larb, for instance, makes a strong case for more vegetarian takes on typically meat-focused classics.

As for the room, there's as much vibrance on the walls as there is on the plates, thanks to co-owner Rachael Boon's murals – yet another way Jungle Fowl brings its brand of finessed fun to Far North Queensland.